Stiffened upright collars appeared in the 1860s and began to display wings in the following decade
I feel like it something to do with arms, i can not lift my arms because arms so low there is a gap, i feel like it is dragging the dress, My mum used to do tailoring, she said it might needs to remove one or two cm from the shoulders, few cm from the sides and then might remove the arms to reposition them again
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